Unfortunately, it is also the least visible in dim light. This is one reason why a non-reflective black, flat-topped front sight with an undercut face is the most accurate type of front sight. Their curved surface reflects a highlight in the direction of the sun, which becomes a false aiming point. One problem with all front sight beads is that they tend to shoot away from the light. I have used all of these, and for hunting I prefer the traditional gold bead (actually a brass alloy), as it is more durable than colored plastic beads. When correctly zeroed, the bullet should hit right at the top of the front post.Ī gold, ivory, or red colored bead is often affixed to the face of the front sight to enhance visibility in dim light. The idea is to center the front post in the rear notch, keeping the top of the front sight level with the top of the rear sight (as seen by the shooter's eye). Sometimes it is protected by a removable metal hood. The front sight takes the form of a vertical blade or post dovetailed, screwed, or sweated onto the muzzle end of the barrel, often on some sort of ramp. It is usually secured in a dovetail slot or screwed onto the rifle barrel toward the breech end so that the notch lines up with the shooter's eye. The rear sight is typically an upright, transversely mounted metal blade into which has been cut a "V," "U," or square shaped notch. Open sights consist of a rear sight and a front sight. Open iron sights of one sort or another are supplied on many rifles, the other types must usually be purchased separately and installed by the rifle owner. The usual sight options for hunting rifles are open iron sights (from buckhorn to express), aperture sights (tang, receiver, peep or ghost ring), and optical (telescopic) sights.
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